Beginners Guide To Frogs
WRITTEN BY D.KNIGHT
Introduction
starting out with frogs can be confusing and stressful, this guide has been developed for those that want to learn and get into the hobby in the right way. Frogs are very rewarding visual pets that can bring hours of amusement but they do however require time and dedication to thrive and stay healthy.
There is more to keeping frogs than just water and food..........
Species selection
there are many frogs that are well suited to a beginner, as well as many that are not and it is important that you chose the species that is right for you. The first thing to decide is whether or not you like terrestrial, arboreal or aquatic frogs. It is important to remember that different types of frogs require different sized and style habitats and you must be sure you can provide the space to house the set up. Once you have decided on what type of frogs you like, and you are sure you can provide the space it is then time to chose a species that matches your choice.
If you like arboreal frogs, often referred to as tree frogs (hylidaes, Rhacophoridaes) Whites tree frogs (Litoria caerulea) Vietnamese blue tree frogs (Rhacophorus Dennsyi) American green tree frogs (Hyla cinerea) American grey tree frogs (Hyla versicolor) European tree frogs (Hyla aborea) Peacock tree frogs (Leptopelis vermiculatus) Reed frogs (Afrixalus, Heterixalus, and Hyperolius species)
If you like terrestrial frogs Horned frogs (Ceratophrys aurita, cornuta, cranwelli, ornata, pierroti) Budggets frogs (Lepidobatrachus laevis)
If you like aquatic or semi aquatic frogs Fire bellied toads (Bombina orientalis) African clawed frogs (Xenopus laevis)
Some more challenging frogs that require more time and research
Poison Arrow frogs (Dendrobates) Red eye tree frogs (Agalychnis callidryas) Waxy monkey Frogs (Phyllomedusa)
Once you have chosen the species you wish to keep it is time to move onto research.
Research
the first and most important thing to do is be sure of the Latin name for the species you wish to keep, that way there is no confusion when you are researching as common names can differ vastly. The first things you need to find out are
Size the species obtains
What size enclosure will it require
What foods do they need to be fed
What temperature they need to be maintained at
What humidity they need.
Once you have researched and found this information out it is wise you get it confirmed by either other keepers, cross referencing sites and books or your local pet store (providing they do amphibians).
Know you know the basics it is time to research there general husbandry, including care, feeding schedules and cleaning.
Just be aware there is lots of information available on the web, some true and some false. DO NOT rely on public forums as you’re main or only source of information, although most members are helpful and genuine the information is not vetted and any one can post anything claiming to be an expert.
If at any time in your research you feel you would not be able to provide the care needed you should reconsider the frog you wish to keep
Housing
Depending on the type of frog you have chosen the vivarium will differ. Here are the basics for each type of vivarium.
Arboreal.
A tall vivarium with lots of climbing potential and plants. The vivarium has a good layer of substrate and incorporates a shallow water dish.
Terrestrial
Vey similar to the arboreal vivarium except it is longer than it is high. Terrestrial vivs should be well planted and provide hides for the frogs to hide in. Some low laying branches are also good so the frog can get off the floor, however nothing to high as terrestrial frogs as a rule do not possess the sticky toe pads of arboreal frogs.
Aquatic
this set up is basically a fish tank, and should be maintained in the same way. A filter and a water heater is required along with some large peals as a substrate. Caves and drift wood will also provide hiding places. Live plants are great for these set ups as they will provide cover, give the tank a natural look and help produce oxygen.
Semi aquatic
these vivariums are very similar to the aquatic set ups except the water to land ration is 50/50. This can be achieved by sloping the substrate from one end to the other so that the frogs can leave the water.
starting out with frogs can be confusing and stressful, this guide has been developed for those that want to learn and get into the hobby in the right way. Frogs are very rewarding visual pets that can bring hours of amusement but they do however require time and dedication to thrive and stay healthy.
There is more to keeping frogs than just water and food..........
Species selection
there are many frogs that are well suited to a beginner, as well as many that are not and it is important that you chose the species that is right for you. The first thing to decide is whether or not you like terrestrial, arboreal or aquatic frogs. It is important to remember that different types of frogs require different sized and style habitats and you must be sure you can provide the space to house the set up. Once you have decided on what type of frogs you like, and you are sure you can provide the space it is then time to chose a species that matches your choice.
If you like arboreal frogs, often referred to as tree frogs (hylidaes, Rhacophoridaes) Whites tree frogs (Litoria caerulea) Vietnamese blue tree frogs (Rhacophorus Dennsyi) American green tree frogs (Hyla cinerea) American grey tree frogs (Hyla versicolor) European tree frogs (Hyla aborea) Peacock tree frogs (Leptopelis vermiculatus) Reed frogs (Afrixalus, Heterixalus, and Hyperolius species)
If you like terrestrial frogs Horned frogs (Ceratophrys aurita, cornuta, cranwelli, ornata, pierroti) Budggets frogs (Lepidobatrachus laevis)
If you like aquatic or semi aquatic frogs Fire bellied toads (Bombina orientalis) African clawed frogs (Xenopus laevis)
Some more challenging frogs that require more time and research
Poison Arrow frogs (Dendrobates) Red eye tree frogs (Agalychnis callidryas) Waxy monkey Frogs (Phyllomedusa)
Once you have chosen the species you wish to keep it is time to move onto research.
Research
the first and most important thing to do is be sure of the Latin name for the species you wish to keep, that way there is no confusion when you are researching as common names can differ vastly. The first things you need to find out are
Size the species obtains
What size enclosure will it require
What foods do they need to be fed
What temperature they need to be maintained at
What humidity they need.
Once you have researched and found this information out it is wise you get it confirmed by either other keepers, cross referencing sites and books or your local pet store (providing they do amphibians).
Know you know the basics it is time to research there general husbandry, including care, feeding schedules and cleaning.
Just be aware there is lots of information available on the web, some true and some false. DO NOT rely on public forums as you’re main or only source of information, although most members are helpful and genuine the information is not vetted and any one can post anything claiming to be an expert.
If at any time in your research you feel you would not be able to provide the care needed you should reconsider the frog you wish to keep
Housing
Depending on the type of frog you have chosen the vivarium will differ. Here are the basics for each type of vivarium.
Arboreal.
A tall vivarium with lots of climbing potential and plants. The vivarium has a good layer of substrate and incorporates a shallow water dish.
Terrestrial
Vey similar to the arboreal vivarium except it is longer than it is high. Terrestrial vivs should be well planted and provide hides for the frogs to hide in. Some low laying branches are also good so the frog can get off the floor, however nothing to high as terrestrial frogs as a rule do not possess the sticky toe pads of arboreal frogs.
Aquatic
this set up is basically a fish tank, and should be maintained in the same way. A filter and a water heater is required along with some large peals as a substrate. Caves and drift wood will also provide hiding places. Live plants are great for these set ups as they will provide cover, give the tank a natural look and help produce oxygen.
Semi aquatic
these vivariums are very similar to the aquatic set ups except the water to land ration is 50/50. This can be achieved by sloping the substrate from one end to the other so that the frogs can leave the water.
Water
All water that is used with frogs should be de-chlorinated. Bottled water is the best and safest method, but tap water that has been left for 24-48 hours will be safe as the chlorine will evaporate. Other methods used are to treat tap water with aquarium water safe products (tettra safe) which will dechlorinate the water and remove all the harmful metals.
Which ever method you chose just be sure it is fully dechlorinated as chlorine will kill frogs very quickly
Water dishes should be cleaned and replaced daily as foul water will lead to illness and stressed frogs.
Aquatic and semi aquatic set ups should be maintained in the same way as tropical fish tanks, with weekly 25% water changes and constant water tests for chemicals such as ammonia an nitrate. The water should also be filtered in these set ups with a suitable aquatic filter.
Which ever method you chose just be sure it is fully dechlorinated as chlorine will kill frogs very quickly
Water dishes should be cleaned and replaced daily as foul water will lead to illness and stressed frogs.
Aquatic and semi aquatic set ups should be maintained in the same way as tropical fish tanks, with weekly 25% water changes and constant water tests for chemicals such as ammonia an nitrate. The water should also be filtered in these set ups with a suitable aquatic filter.
Heating and Humidity
All tropical frogs will require a heat source of some kind to maintain their habitat. There are several ways to do this from heat mats, to ceramic heat bulbs. Heat mats are by far the safest way but be warned they can overheat so they should be on a stat. Ceramic heat bulb should not be used with any arboreal frogs as the surface area can reach fatal temperatures. Also if ceramic heat bulbs are used they will dry the air out so more mist spraying will be required to maintain the humidity.
Humidity is also essential to frogs. The best way to keep humidity raised is to spray the viv with de-chlorinated water at least once per day. Live plants will also help in maintaining humidity levels.
Each species will require different humidity and temperatures.
Keeping the vivarium clean is a very important part of amphibian husbandry.
On a daily basis any dead food, feces and urate should be removed and the leaves wiped over with an amphibian safe disinfectant.
Every 4-6 months the vivarium should have a real good clean.
The substrate should be replaced, any removable items taken out and sterilized and all the non-removable
items given a good clean.
When this clean out is taking place I advise removing the frogs as it will be less stress and allot safer for them
Feeding
Frogs will eat a large range of inverts such as crickets, locusts, moths and flies. Food items should be sized accordingly, the best way to judge this is by offering items that are equal to the distance between the specimen’s pupils. Vitamins and calcium supplements should be dusted onto the food; the most effective way to do this is by placing the food into a bag, adding the supplement and gently shaking. Adults should be given a feed with calcium once per week and vitamins also once per week. Juveniles will need more frequent supplementing. Do not supplement calcium and vitamins at the same time, do one per feed. Food items should also be gut loaded on fresh veg before being offered. Adult fogs should be fed 2 - 3 times per week and juveniles daily. Any uneaten food should be removed from the viv as it will not only stress and bite the frogs but it will also eat the plants.
Getting your new frogs home
When you get your new frogs home do not be tempted to photo or leer over them. Moving is a stressful time for frogs so it is important they are given time to settle.
The ideal routine is to bring them home quickly, keeping them warm and take them to the pre constructed vivarium. Then the best method id to place the container in the vivarium take the containers lid off and shut the vivarium door, letting the frog come out in its time.
If frogs do not feed for a few days do not panic, this is quiet normal. Just offer them small amounts of food until they are ready to eat.
Conclusion
With the correct preparation keeping frogs is a joy, the initial set up can be expensive but the rewards out way the costs.
Just take your time and do your research and the world of frogs will soon draw you in.
Good luck
All tropical frogs will require a heat source of some kind to maintain their habitat. There are several ways to do this from heat mats, to ceramic heat bulbs. Heat mats are by far the safest way but be warned they can overheat so they should be on a stat. Ceramic heat bulb should not be used with any arboreal frogs as the surface area can reach fatal temperatures. Also if ceramic heat bulbs are used they will dry the air out so more mist spraying will be required to maintain the humidity.
Humidity is also essential to frogs. The best way to keep humidity raised is to spray the viv with de-chlorinated water at least once per day. Live plants will also help in maintaining humidity levels.
Each species will require different humidity and temperatures.
Keeping the vivarium clean is a very important part of amphibian husbandry.
On a daily basis any dead food, feces and urate should be removed and the leaves wiped over with an amphibian safe disinfectant.
Every 4-6 months the vivarium should have a real good clean.
The substrate should be replaced, any removable items taken out and sterilized and all the non-removable
items given a good clean.
When this clean out is taking place I advise removing the frogs as it will be less stress and allot safer for them
Feeding
Frogs will eat a large range of inverts such as crickets, locusts, moths and flies. Food items should be sized accordingly, the best way to judge this is by offering items that are equal to the distance between the specimen’s pupils. Vitamins and calcium supplements should be dusted onto the food; the most effective way to do this is by placing the food into a bag, adding the supplement and gently shaking. Adults should be given a feed with calcium once per week and vitamins also once per week. Juveniles will need more frequent supplementing. Do not supplement calcium and vitamins at the same time, do one per feed. Food items should also be gut loaded on fresh veg before being offered. Adult fogs should be fed 2 - 3 times per week and juveniles daily. Any uneaten food should be removed from the viv as it will not only stress and bite the frogs but it will also eat the plants.
Getting your new frogs home
When you get your new frogs home do not be tempted to photo or leer over them. Moving is a stressful time for frogs so it is important they are given time to settle.
The ideal routine is to bring them home quickly, keeping them warm and take them to the pre constructed vivarium. Then the best method id to place the container in the vivarium take the containers lid off and shut the vivarium door, letting the frog come out in its time.
If frogs do not feed for a few days do not panic, this is quiet normal. Just offer them small amounts of food until they are ready to eat.
Conclusion
With the correct preparation keeping frogs is a joy, the initial set up can be expensive but the rewards out way the costs.
Just take your time and do your research and the world of frogs will soon draw you in.
Good luck